I’ve used NINA, Voyager, KStars, PHD2, AstroImager, Deep Sky Stacker and more. I’ve also used every piece of software out there, from the simplest capture applications, to very complex setups using very complex software on all platforms. As someone who is a tinkerer and is technically inclined, I’ve experimented with all kinds of setups ranging from Linux to Windows and Mac. However, I’m also a firm believer of using the best tool for the job. My website’s primary focus is on using a Mac computer in Astrophotography. I’ve tested all kinds of hardware and software combinations. Some Final Thoughts and Hopes for the Future Follow along the process outlined with the screenshots below. But I did delve deeply into all the other sections, and especially plan mode to make my first mosaic. I didn’t explore Live stacking or Video in depth as I don’t often do that type of astrophotography. Video: Planetary video capturing can be done from this tab with controls for exposure, gain, white balance and more. Calibration frames can be applied to the live stacking process for the best viewing by yourself or with an audience at outreach events. Live: live stacking operations can be done in this section, with each subsequent image taken in succession being aligned and stacked to the previous to view targets in real time. Plan: for more complex unattended operations you can define mosaics here, multiple targets, autorun sequences per target, and startup and shutdown timing. This can be a series of calibration frames, or light frames for any target already acquired through Preview Preview: allows you to pick and view targets at will with any exposure setting to test things outĪutorun: a simple method for setting up a string of captures. On the right hand pane of the window there is a menu item highlighted in yellow, which allows you to change the current mode of the device.įocus: allows you to manually or automatically focus with an EAF ZWO’s interface is logically broken down into multiple parts depending on what you want to do. The ASIAIR Mini and the 2.0 software update really gave me a very positive experience in making my first mosaic. Even for me, as I began to test and review this device, I had personally never delved into making mosaics for fear of the complexities involved. These refinements are leading to a more positive experience for astrophotography users of all skill sets. ZWO didn’t provide any reasoning for the switch to USB 2 only, but I would assume it allowed them to further cut costs and still maintain a very capable unit. But those same full frame cameras will work great with deep sky imaging on the Mini. The largest drawback of going to USB 2 is that full frame cameras will not work with the live stacking feature. Even during fast sequences like capturing bias frames or flats, the images were downloaded and stored on device faster than they could transfer over WiFi to display on my iPad. Large color images from my ZWO ASI2600MC-Pro camera download within seconds after capture. While this is a downgrade, it’s not as big of a drawback as you might think. I was able to set up the telescope in the back yard, and control the unit from the front yard, a distance of at least 60 feet and through the walls of our home. In my testing the WiFi reach exceeded the ASIAIR Plus distance which already allowed me to control the unit from within my home. I don't see how adding even more space between the cam and scope would make it easier to focus, considering, I can already overshoot and undershoot focus without any tubes.The Mini maintains 4 USB ports, 4 power ports, and a powerful WiFi antenna. So does that mean, that my sensor has to be 37.5mm away from the end of the focuser or.? I was able to get what looked like perfect focus with an eyepiece (sky panorama 23mm 82deg) after adding the included extension tube. Difficult to tell without more info or a picture of the focuser with camera added and where best focus is (furthest in or furthest out).įor this image I didn't have any ccs or reducers. Inward means you probably need to remove an extenstion tube. So when using a different camera such as the 485MC which as a 17.5mm back focus you may need spacers to add another 37.5mmīut that really depends on whether you don't have enough back fockus or inward focus. The PDS versions of the scopes are shortened versions of the standard scope to allow DSLR usage, they typically have a 55mm back focus. If you have nothing in the light path that affects the focus position then perhaps there is an extension tube to be added/removed. Have you focused with any other camera or just visual/eyepieces? Have you anything fitted in between the camera and focuser, such as a flattener/reducer or coma corrector and/or any extensions fitted to the end of the focuser tube?
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